Introduction to suzhou, China

Marco Polo once declared that Sūzhōu was one of the most beautiful cities in China (though Hángzhōu was better). While Polo’s Sūzhōu was a charming merchant town of whitewashed houses, tree-lined canals and sumptuous gardens, modern Sūzhōu is a bust­ling city surrounded by factories and high rises. It takes some work to find the charm under the city’s glossy veneer, but it’s there.

Sūzhōu’s main draw is its gardens. There were originally over a hundred but now only a handful exist, some over a thousand years old. The gardens, a symphonic combination of rocks, water, trees and buildings, reflect the Chinese appreciation of balance and harmony. You could easily spend an enjoyable several days exploring the gardens, paying a visit to the excellent Silk Museum and exploring some of Sūzhōu’s surviving canals, pagodas and humpbacked bridges.

Lonely Planet review for Garden of the Master of the Nets

Off Shiquan Jie, this pocket-sized garden, the smallest in Sūzhōu, is considered one of the best preserved in the city. It was laid out in the 12th century, went to seed and was later restored in the 18th century as part of the home of a retired official turned fisherman (thus the name). The central section is the main garden. The western section is an inner garden where a courtyard contains the Spring Rear Cottage (Diànchūn Yì), the master's study.

The most striking feature of this garden is its use of space: the labyrinth of courtyards, with windows framing other parts of the garden, is ingeniously designed to give the illusion of a much larger area. Trivia nuts: the Peony Study is used as the model for the Astor Court and Ming Garden in the Museum of Modern Art, New York.

There are two ways to the entry gate, with English signs and souvenir stalls marking the way: you can enter from the alley on Shiquan Jie or via Kuòjīatóu Xiàng (阔家头巷), an alley off Daichengqiao Lu. Music performances are held for tourists in the evening.

Lonely Planet review for Sūzhōu Museum

This IM Pei—designed museum is a soothing contrast of water, bamboo and straight lines in a stunning geometric interpretation of a Sūzhōu garden. Inside is a fascinating array of jade, ceramics, wooden carvings, textiles and other displays, all with good English captions. Look out for the Boxwood statue of Avalokiteshvara (Guanyin), dating from the republican period. An in-depth look at the scholars and their lifestyle of the period is particular fascinating (containers for crickets? A mahogany birdcage with a dainty porcelain water cup? Did these guys actually do any study?). Draconian entry rules apply: flip-flops wearers get turned away. Come early as there are limited 'tickets' each day.

Lonely Planet review for Cold Mountain Temple

About 2km west of the Garden to Linger In, the Cold Mountain Temple was named after the 7th century poet-monk Han Shan. Han Shan has exerted a surprising amount of influence on 20th century literature, first showing up in the work of Beat writers Gary Snyder and Jack Kerouac, and later in the poetry of Irish Nobel prize-winner Seamus Heaney.

Today, the temple holds little of interest except for a stele by poet Zhang Ji immortalising both the nearby Maple Bridge and the temple bell (since removed to Japan). However, the fine walls and the humpback bridge are worth seeing.

Lonely Planet review for Coiled Gate

By the southwest corner of the outer moat (but entered from Dong Dajie), and part of one of Sūzhōu’s few remaining stretches of city wall, Coiled Gate is thought to be China’s last remaining land-and-water-gate, and dates from 1355. Inside the same grounds, Ruiguang Pagoda (Ruìguāng Tǎ) dates from the 3rd century and can be climbed. Further north, Gold Gate(Jīn Mén), just inside the western stretch of the city moat, is a plain but charming, unrestored city gate.

Lonely Planet review for Lion's Grove Garden

Near the Humble Administrator's Garden is the Lion's Grove Garden, constructed in 1342 by the Buddhist monk Tianru to commemorate his master, who lived on Lion Cliff in Zhèjiāng's Tīanm' Mountain. The garden is most notable for its legion of curiously shaped rocks, meant to resemble lions, protectors of the Buddhist faith. If the Humble Administrator's Garden was crowded, get ready to be pushed along by the tide of tourists here.

Lonely Planet review for Tiger Hill

In the far northwest of town, Tiger Hill is popular with local tourists. The hill itself is artificial and is the final resting place of He Lu, founding father of Sūzhōu. He Lu died in the 6th century BC and myths have coalesced around him – he is said to have been buried with a collection of 3000 swords and to be guarded by a white tiger.

The most popular point (and a sort of beacon drawing the visitors) is the leaning Cloud Rock Pagoda (云岩塔; Yúnyán Tǎ) atop Tiger Hill. The octagonal seven-storey pagoda, also known as Hǔqīu Pagoda, was built in the 10th century entirely of brick, an innovation in Chinese architecture at the time. The pagoda began tilting over 400 years ago, and today the highest point is displaced more than 2m from its original position. Comparisons by local guides to the Leaning Tower of Pisa are inevitable though the tower cannot be climbed.

Tourist buses Y1 and Y2 from the train station go to Tiger Hill.

Lonely Planet review for Humble Administrator's Garden

First built in 1509, this 5.2–hectare garden is clustered with water features, a museum, a teahouse and at least 10 pavilions such as 'the listening to the sound of rain' and 'the faraway looking' pavilions – hardly humble, we know. It is the largest of all the gardens and considered by many to be the most impressive. With its zigzagging bridges, pavilions, bamboo groves and fragrant lotus ponds, it should be an ideal place for a leisurely stroll…sadly you'll have to battle with crowds for right of way!

Lonely Planet review for Old Streets (Píngjiāng Lù & Shàngtáng Jīe)

While most of the canals in the city have been sealed and paved into roads, there are two outstanding areas which give visitors a clue to Suzhou's 'Venice of the East' moniker. On the eastern side of the city, Píngjiāng Lù (平江路) is undoubtedly the prettier and more popular of the two. This pedestrian road (watch out for electric bikes though!) is set alongside a canal. Whitewashed local houses and trendy cafes selling overpriced lattes sit comfortably side-by-side – locals wring their dirty mops into the canal and are completely oblivious to the hordes of tourist jostling to get their National Geographic–worthy snapshots. Had enough of makeover studios and Tsingtao-swilling tourists? Duck down some of the side streets that jut out from the main path for a glimpse at the slow-paced local life.

At the foot of Tiger Hill is the start of a grittier version of Píngjiāng Lù. Shàngtáng Jīe (上塘街) eschews espresso and beer for tacky souvenir shops but keep on walking and the dross is soon replaced by grimy Ming- and Qing-dynasty houses and locals pottering about. Sure, it lacks the touristy sheen but there's just something about the dirty cobblestone paths that appeals. You can get a ticket (Y45) to several tourist spots including old residences, but you can do without that. The walk will take you 2.5km down to Xīzhōngshì at the edge of central Sūzhōu. Boat rides along the canal are Y34 to Y45, but why miss out on all the close action?